{around & about}

{lily donaldson by steven meisel for vogue}

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Japan, I Love You

I thought I would share about my journeys as we traveled and as it turns out, I was wrong. Japan swallowed me whole, and I loved every bit of it. (well, maybe not the freezing, toes-numb parts, but more on that later) Our time in this fabled land was richly sensory: visual beauty and bombardment; culinary explorations in many, many directions, most, exceedingly delicious; and lots and lots of walking. We did take trains, buses, and the metro quite a bit, but it was our lucky feet that brought us to one destination after another and all of those treasured points in-between.

After our 14+ hours in a plane and 2 additional in a shuttle from the airport to Tokyo proper, we muscled our luggage to the rental apartment in Shibuya - a youthful, bustling area and a great anchor from which to move about. We got settled in, cleaned up, and then collapsed. And that brings me to our first day. We set out for my favorite nook in this incredible city, the neighborhood of Shimokitazawa, and true-to-memory it remains as vibrant as when I visited it last.

artwork on storefront gate

It was a beautiful sunny day meant for wandering. We were wide-eyed to drink it all in, and one of the first orders of business was to get to drinking some coffee. We found a little corner shop, and as we walked in I was surprised to see a coffee I knew well - the fruity Yirgacheffe that I have loved sipping at spots here in NYC. We got whatever their daily roast was - still brushing up on our *VERY* limited Japanese, we did not attempt to find out what it was. Only that it was delicious and I wished to have more of it. :)

 

cute teapots lined up along the window

 

sitting in the warming sun

photo by Jim Lafferty

Meandering around as shops began to open and bicyclists pedaled by, we came across various things.

fun sp moment!

outdoor restaurant display, weathered design on a large urn

Along another small street, there was a flower shop selling exquisite blooms.

such a thoughtful, smart presentation!

Peeking into various shops and taking our time, we were having a blast. Here's another sweet flower shop we happened upon - and I thought I'd be trudging in the freezing cold, it being winter and all!

We had arranged to meet A for lunch and in retracing our steps to meet with her, I found these - a little table that looked like the beginnings of a produce stand, and someone's refined display outside their home - gorgeous, right?

We dined at a place called Cafe Zinc, an artsy, light-filled space with enough room to remain intimate, even when full. The food was simple and a delight, a mix of Japanese comfort food and western-inspired offerings. I loved how the menu was composed: daily selections could be added or removed as per what the chef could source and wanted to make.

iphone photo, Jim Lafferty

What better way to top off a tasty meal than with a rich cup of joe? This place set a new bar for what coffee can be - we found ourselves measuring the flavor of every subsequent cup to the one we had here. It was a divine experience. Sigh.

The day wore on and we set out again. Seeing this orange tree growing on a corner was a warming treat during the late-afternoon.

We did finally leave Shimokitazawa to find a new area to explore. More on that soon. Our first day was bliss. I hope these scenes help you to enjoy it as much as we did!

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Christmas in New York City

Recently, I was given a project by my friend on the other side of the world, none other than Miss Katie Quinn Davies, to find and capture places in this fair city that I cherish and want to share with the world, for a mega, magazine-style post coming out any day now.

Of course various places rushed to mind, and then came the work of trying to establish the right timing to stop in and make the pictures happen. Along the way I was met with some surprises and some unexpected complications - hello amazing food venues, exhausted from Thanksgiving business and trying to get your Christmas act together, all by the first week of December! It makes me tired even thinking of it. All in all, I felt like fortune graced me and I made deeper relationships with these wonderful businesses, and I was able to showcase their many special attributes in a way that we all can feel good about. Here are some of my favorites (in no particular order)...

Cafe Grumpy - my coffee shop of choice, and rightly so with a knowledgeable and dynamic staff. Oh, and they have amazing coffee! It's my indulgence in the afternoons on days when I have time to meander (and sometimes other times too).

My steady, the clover machine brew

Making latte art look effortless

Next, there is The Castello Plan. In Ditmas Park, Brooklyn, they are a gem in a neighborhood of beautiful homes and people (they have porches and gardens there, need I say anything else??). My sweetheart took me there first on my birthday, and it's been a love affair for all of us ever since!

This gorgeous platter, available at brunch

Chef Natasha putting the finishing touches to one of her amazing creations

Gramercy Flowers in Chelsea Market is an enchanted little boite. You cannot help yourself but be lured inside to see what sexy, lush incarnations in plants and blooms await. J. brings me home a bouquet from them now and again, and I always feel like a lucky girl when that happens.

 

In the West Village, there is Chocolate Bar. For years I have been going there for rarefied treats - mostly to give as gifts - as I usually feel spending money on myself in that way to be a bit much. I do feel great about it however, when I consider how happy someone else is going to be as they receive a special box of truffles, all custom-wrapped and beautiful.

Their holiday chocolate bark bar - yep, as satisfying as it sounds.

Gorgeous, chocolate-gobbling children - good customers :)

Left Bank Books is another amazing find, just a couple doors down from Chocolate Bar. In my adventures around the city, I realized I could make a story about the magic of food and, only here, they would be in the form of lush words crafted to tempt. This could make for a whole new satisfaction - never mind their rare and beautiful editions - see for yourself.

Owner, Kim Herzinger

And last but not least, Lucy's Whey, back in the Chelsea Market. These people are serious about cheese. Really good cheese. You can try any of the artisanal selection, and it's all pretty fabulous. Make sure you get some of their beer & pretzel caramels at the very least!

All this and more in the great Christmas Story! Check it out and be prepared for your salivary glands to start working in overdrive....

May you all have a memorable, loving, and restful holiday this year.

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